June 20 Tekoa, WA (21.3 miles)
Today I followed long ridges above endless fields of wheat. Passed 2000 miles near Lone Pine. This was more memorable for the swamp I waded through and grasses over eight feet high. Fear of snakes kept me moving. I have only myself to blame as I had ignored a marked detour around this area. I emerged from the swamp to cross a reclaimed mine tract and 2 high stone trestles at Rosalia. Camp was provided at the fairgrounds.

June 21 Rosalia, WA (15.6 miles)
Quiet winding route high above Pine Creek. Today's highlights were a number of deep rock cuts, some almost one-half mile long. Deer and coyotes sighted, but as is usual — no people.

June 22 Hole-in-the-ground, WA (21.3 miles)
The chocolate Brown Basalt Hills of Rock Lake dominate the landscape here. Aside from one patch of pinewoods, deep cuts and cactus line the trail. Two tunnels and one landslide were crossed. One curving trestle features a line of boxcars lying on their sides. The midnight blue waters of the lake provide a nice contrast. Pushing beyond the lake, I entered the Scablands. Now, isolated ridges of volcanic rock break up the desert landscape in endless odd shapes. The ghost town of Revere provided an uneasy camp. No one seen here today.

June 23 Revere, WA (23.4 miles)
Even the volcanic rocks retreating now, leaving only blowing brown dust and salt flats. The emptiness here is intimidating. Thank God it's only 85 to 90 degrees. Marengo, WA provided four rare examples of camping houses built by the railroad. (Uniform green shingle roofs, with white clapboard in poor repair.) Detour of flooded Cow Creek provided spectacular area of volcanic rocks. I even saw two people!!! Passed a standing signal at Ralston and made camp near an abandoned elevator.

June 24 Ralston, WA (17.3 miles)
Scablands gone now, leaving only deer, prairie dogs and cactus for company. Heard four snakes, saw only one. Ghost towns and progress on trail marked by abandoned grain elevators. Pushed into town of Lind just ahead of a severe thunderstorm. Town provided much needed supplies. Tomorrow, we head back west to Spokane, WA to learn Sue's fate. We are very uneasy tonight.

June 25 Spokane, WA (1.0-mile) Spent 8 hours at the medical center here. The news was not good for Sue. A fungus has attacked the bone in two toes. They will be removed on Monday. Gordon found a wheelchair and I found the 62-mile long paved Centennial Trail. We headed to Higgins Point near Coeur d'Alene, Idaho. Covered one mile of the trail before dark.

June 26 Coeur d'Alene, ID (31.5 miles)
I rocked, and Sue rolled all the way into Washington. Varied route included lakes, highway easements and a spectacular wilderness along the Spokane River. Restored prairie areas provided spectacular wildflower displays. "Buddy", Sue's guide dog, is part Husky and really seems to enjoy pulling the wheelchair. Near the state line, we passed a farmer selling Rainier Cherries. I sampled a pint and bought four pounds! They were incredible. We became adept at eating cherries while trying to keep up with Buddy and the chair. Sue keeps fighting.

June 27 Spokane Valley, WA (24.6 miles)
Today featured a wonderful contrast. Spooked four deer and enjoyed woods until 9a.m. Passed into Spokane and Riverfront Park about noon. Here, I passed dozens of basketball games in progress — part of "Hoopfest 99". Just as quickly, crossed Spokane Falls on a Suspension bridge and climbed to a canyon rim high above Spokane River. Day's end found us back in deep woods near the remnants of a CCC Camp. Firewood from an old barn decorated our camp.

June 28 Seven Mile, WA (6.0 miles)
Up at dawn to complete the centennial Trail by 9:30 a.m. Over to hospital for Sue's outpatient surgery. By 7p.m. she was back with us, in remarkably good spirits. By 8p.m., she is negotiating with her doctors in Missouri about her schedule to resume walking. She will reluctantly bend to their wishes for awhile, but after 30,00 miles of hiking, no force on earth will stop her.

June 29 Beverly, WA (18.5 miles)
Gordon dropped me off at the Columbia River about 11a.m. Weeks ago we arranged to be escorted across the trestle over the Columbia River Gorge by James Munroe of the Washington Department of Natural Resources. Gordon and I spent one hour on the 4000-foot trestle admiring the views. I had arranged to cross the dam downstream, but no one unlocked the gate there. This forced a 3-mile backtrack to the trestle, only now it was locked too! Undaunted, I burrowed under the gate after much digging. Minutes later, near Beverly, I narrowly escaped disaster when a 6-foot rattler surprised me only 2 yards away from where I sat. Wary march through desert sage below the barren brown slopes of the Saddle mountains. Made dry camp just short of Smyrna.

June 30 Smyrna, WA (30.2 miles)
Managed to scrounge water beyond town, but it was not really enough. Marched across dry desert lands, interspersed with croplands where irrigation had been done. Carried a filter, but don't know if they handle pesticides, so I just kept moving. Finally, at 6p.m., after 26 miles, I saw my first person since Smyrna. Water got me to Othello and a night of luxury at a local motel.

July 1 Othello, WA (20.6 miles)
From back near Smyrna to Warden, the John Wayne trail has a break as the railroad is still in use. I followed back roads to Warden through crops of all description. Irrigation via the Columbia River has transformed the desert. At Warden, both the trail and the desolation return. Camp is selected in a shallow cut to break the wind. Coyotes singing through the night.

July 2 Roxboro, WA (18.3 miles)
The abandoned grain elevator here and one herd of cattle were my only landmarks today. Marching through miles of desolation, I made it back to Lind and a reunion with Sue. Washington is now completed from the Columbia River to the Idaho Border. Our plan to camp back at the Columbia by the trestle is altered by a blown tire. Instead we headed west on the trail to Ellensburg.

July 3 Ellensburg, WA (33.2 miles)
This morning I crossed the lush (relatively) Kittatas Valley. Beyond the town of Kittatas I entered the Baylston Mountains and the Arly's Yakima Missile Range. Climbed through desert to the crest of the range to pass through Baylston Tunnel. From here to the Columbia River the grade was an amazing engineering feat. I wound 100-200 feet above a canyon passing through dozens of deep cuts. Herds of mule deer provided company as I descended back to the Columbia Gorge. Long after dark, I stopped on a bluff just above the river. I slept under the stars in a roaring wind.

July 4 Port Angeles, WA (7.5 miles)
With the desert now done, we made the decision to head to the Pacific Ocean and finish Washington headed East. We stopped for the night in Port Angeles to check out the new Olympic Trail System. Sue and I covered six miles of trail and then we stopped to watch fireworks above the harbor.